Experimental study on nonlinear characteristics of&nbsp;waves within inner surf and swash zones

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-909X.2022.01.004

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Journal of Marine Sciences ›› 2022, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (1) : 33-41. DOI: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-909X.2022.01.004

Experimental study on nonlinear characteristics of waves within inner surf and swash zones

In this study, Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV) and Wave Gauge (WG) were used to measure the wave height, wave velocity and other hydrodynamic parameters within inner surf and swash zones under three slopes. Based on the second-order spectrum method, the probability density distribution of wave height and velocity between different sections, as well as high-order nonlinear statistical variables such as skewness, asymmetry and kurtosis were analyzed. The results show that the wave height and velocity deviate from the normal distribution, the skewness and kurtosis of wave height decrease first and then increase during the nearshore propagation, the asymmetry increase first and then decrease, and the nonlinear characteristics of wave height are not affected by the slope. The velocity in the three cases shows different nonlinear distribution characteristics. In the steep slope and composite slope, section distribution of velocity skewness characteristics are not obvious. Only the vertical distribution of velocity skewness at each section of gentle slope increases first and then decreases. The velocity asymmetry of the three cases increases first and then decreases with the increase of the distance from the bed.

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Abstract

In this study, Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV) and Wave Gauge (WG) were used to measure the wave height, wave velocity and other hydrodynamic parameters within inner surf and swash zones under three slopes. Based on the second-order spectrum method, the probability density distribution of wave height and velocity between different sections, as well as high-order nonlinear statistical variables such as skewness, asymmetry and kurtosis were analyzed. The results show that the wave height and velocity deviate from the normal distribution, the skewness and kurtosis of wave height decrease first and then increase during the nearshore propagation, the asymmetry increase first and then decrease, and the nonlinear characteristics of wave height are not affected by the slope. The velocity in the three cases shows different nonlinear distribution characteristics. In the steep slope and composite slope, section distribution of velocity skewness characteristics are not obvious. Only the vertical distribution of velocity skewness at each section of gentle slope increases first and then decreases. The velocity asymmetry of the three cases increases first and then decreases with the increase of the distance from the bed.

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swash zone / skewness / asymmetry / kurtosis / nonlinear characteristics

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DENG Bin, ZHANG Wen, JIANG Changbo, et al. Experimental study on nonlinear characteristics of waves within inner surf and swash zones[J]. Journal of Marine Sciences. 2022, 40(1): 33-41 https://doi.org/10.3969/j.issn.1001-909X.2022.01.004