基于浮标数据评估三阶Stokes波的非线性海浪谱

贺超超; 王子韵; 蔡烽; 王海丽; 王锦; 刘雨立; 董昌明

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-909X.2025.03.002

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海洋学研究 ›› 2025, Vol. 43 ›› Issue (3) : 11-20. DOI: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-909X.2025.03.002

研究论文

基于浮标数据评估三阶Stokes波的非线性海浪谱

贺超超 ¹ ,
王子韵 ¹ ,
蔡烽 ² ,
王海丽 ³ ,
王锦 ¹ ,
刘雨立 ¹ ,
董昌明 ¹^,⁴^,^*

作者信息 +

Evaluation the nonlinear wave spectrum of third-order Stokes waves based on NDBC buoy data

HE Chaochao ¹ ,
WANG Ziyun ¹ ,
CAI Feng ² ,
WANG Haili ³ ,
WANG Jin ¹ ,
LIU Yuli ¹ ,
DONG Changming ¹^,⁴^,^*

Author information +

文章历史 +

摘要

海浪是海洋动力要素的关键组成部分,对海上航行与海上作业具有显著影响。利用海浪谱可以有效表征海浪能量在频率域上的统计分布特性。本文利用70个NDBC浮标站点的数据,分别基于JONSWAP谱与三阶Stokes波的非线性谱进行有效波高反演。结果表明,与JONSWAP谱反演结果相比,非线性谱的绝对误差和相对误差平均提升程度均超过10%,最大提升程度分别达到28.54%和22.29%,具有显著优势。非线性谱相对于JONSWAP谱的提升程度与有效波高、风速、风向与波向的夹角以及站点水深的关系表明:提升程度随有效波高增加而增加;风速越大,提升程度越大;夹角越小,提升程度越大,且风速对于提升程度的影响远大于夹角的影响;在水深500 m以浅,两种海浪谱的反演精度均高于500 m以深,但在500~5 500 m水深区间内,非线性谱的提升程度超过浅水区,存在线性增加趋势。

Abstract

Ocean waves are a fundamental component of marine dynamics, exerting significant impacts on maritime navigation and offshore operations. The wave spectrum provides an effective representation of the statistical distribution of wave energy across the frequency domain. In this study, observational data from 70 NDBC buoy stations were used to retrieve significant wave heights based on both the JONSWAP spectrum and the third-order Stokes nonlinear spectrum. Results show that, compared with the JONSWAP-based retrievals, the nonlinear spectrum achieves average improvements degree exceeding 10% in both absolute and relative errors, with maximum improvements degree of 28.54% and 22.29%, respectively, demonstrating the nonlinear spectrum’s clear advantages. Further analysis indicates that the performance degrees of the nonlinear spectrum are closely related to significant wave height, wind speed, the angle between wind and wave directions, and water depth. Specifically, the improvement degree increases with larger wave heights and stronger winds; smaller directional angle between wind and waves yields greater benefits, though wind speed exerts a much stronger influence than directional angle. In water depths shallower than 500 m, the inversion accuracies of both wave spectras are higher than those in depths deeper than 500 m. However, within the depth range of 500-5 500 m, the improvement degree in the nonlinear spectrum exceeds that in the shallow-water region, showing a linear increasing trend.

导出引用

贺超超, 王子韵, 蔡烽, 等. 基于浮标数据评估三阶Stokes波的非线性海浪谱[J]. 海洋学研究. 2025, 43(3): 11-20 https://doi.org/10.3969/j.issn.1001-909X.2025.03.002

HE Chaochao, WANG Ziyun, CAI Feng, et al. Evaluation the nonlinear wave spectrum of third-order Stokes waves based on NDBC buoy data[J]. Journal of Marine Sciences. 2025, 43(3): 11-20 https://doi.org/10.3969/j.issn.1001-909X.2025.03.002

中图分类号： P731.22

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