PDF(6284 KB)
PDF(6284 KB)
PDF(6284 KB)
长江口南汇潮滩的波浪特征及其影响因素
Wave characteristics and their influencing factors on Nanhui tidal flats in the Changjiang Estuary
波浪是塑造开敞型潮滩动力地貌的重要因素,但目前对潮滩波浪特征研究仍较少。该文以长江口南汇潮滩为例,通过对固定平台声学多普勒流速仪(Acoustic Doppler Velocimeter,ADV)获得的流速和水压等高频数据进行反演,获得了波浪特征参数和波浪谱参数,进而分析了它们在潮周期内的变化规律和影响机制。研究表明,观测期间南汇潮滩3个站位波浪的常浪向和强浪向以SE向为主,由长周期涌浪占主导。3个站位的有效波高与水深均成正相关关系,但各站位在涨、落潮期间的拟合系数不同。波浪轨道流速受浅水效应和潮流流向的影响明显,如在涨潮初期达到最大,在转流时期出现谷值。落潮期间波浪频谱以双峰谱为主,明显受到潮汐水位和地形的综合影响,期间峰值能量不断衰减且逐渐分散,并伴随出现了峰频转移现象。
Wave is an important factor to shape the dynamic geomorphology of the open tidal flat, but researches on tidal-flat wave characteristics are still limited. Taking Nanhui tidal flats in the Changjiang Estuary as an example, the wave characteristic parameters and wave spectrum parameters were obtained by inverting flow-velocity and water-pressure data from the Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters (ADVs) at some fixed platforms, and their changes over tidal cycles and associated influence mechanisms were discussed. The results show that both normal wave direction and prominent wave direction at three stations of Nanhui tidal flats are mainly southeast during the observation period, with long-period swells dominating. The effective wave height of the three stations is positively correlated with the water depth, but the fitting coefficients of each station are different over flood and ebb periods. Wave orbital velocities are obviously modulated by the shallow water effect and the flow directions, and their maximum values usually occur at the early flooding stage, while minimum values can be observed to occur during the current transition periods. The wave energy spectrum during ebb tides is featured by the bimodal pattern because of high influence by tidal levels and coastal topography, and the peak energy is continuously attenuated and gradually dispersed with the concurrent shift of peak frequencies.
Nanhui tidal flats / wave characteristic parameter / spectrum of waves / wind
| [1] |
|
| [2] |
|
| [3] |
|
| [4] |
陈子燊, 李志强, 李志龙, 等. 海滩碎波带波性质的统计对比分析[J]. 中山大学学报:自然科学版, 2002, 41(6):86-90.
|
| [5] |
王科华, 任赵飞, 周智鹏, 等. 工程海域波浪特征分析方法比较[J]. 海洋工程, 2022, 40(3):149-158.
|
| [6] |
|
| [7] |
|
| [8] |
|
| [9] |
|
| [10] |
|
| [11] |
|
| [12] |
Waves at 12 m water depth in the northeast coastal waters of Zhoushan Island were measured from November 2014 to February 2015, and the characteristics were described. The study showed that the significant wave height varied from 0.08 to 1.35 m with the average of 0.36 m during the winter monsoon period, but the maximum of the maximum wave height is close to the maximum value of some typhoon waves of the same place. The monthly main wave direction varied from ENE to N to NE to ENE. Relatively high correlations exist between some wave parameters and relationships between them were identified. Most of the waves have a bimodal spectrum and the influence of monsoon on waves is intermittent.
|
| [13] |
祁祥礼, 郑向阳, 谌业良. 渤海湾中部波浪特征分析[J]. 水道港口, 2018, 39(3):288-293.
|
| [14] |
陈燕萍, 杨世伦, 史本伟, 等. 潮滩上波高的时空变化及其影响因素:以长江三角洲海岸为例[J]. 海洋科学进展, 2012, 30(3):317-327.
|
| [15] |
赵建春, 李九发, 李占海, 等. 长江口南汇嘴潮滩短期冲淤演变及其动力机制研究[J]. 海洋学报, 2009, 31(4):103-111.
|
| [16] |
曹颖, 朱军政. 长江口南汇东滩水动力条件变化的数值预测[J]. 水科学进展, 2005, 16(4):581-585.
|
| [17] |
火苗, 范代读, 陆琦, 等. 长江口南汇边滩冲淤变化规律与机制[J]. 海洋学报, 2010, 32(5):41-51.
|
| [18] |
李九发, 戴志军, 刘新成, 等. 长江河口南汇嘴潮滩圈围工程前后水沙运动和冲淤演变研究[J]. 泥沙研究, 2010(3):31-37.
|
| [19] |
|
| [20] |
戴志军, 陈建勇, 路海亭. 长江河口南汇东滩与南滩沉积物空间相关特征分析[J]. 海洋湖沼通报, 2008(2):46-52.
|
| [21] |
左书华, 李蓓, 杨华. 长江口南汇嘴海域表层悬浮泥沙分布和运动遥感分析[J]. 水道港口, 2010, 31(5):384-389.
|
| [22] |
冯凌旋, 李占海, 李九发, 等. 基于机制分解法长江口南汇潮滩悬移质泥沙通量研究[J]. 长江流域资源与环境, 2011, 20(8):944-950.
|
| [23] |
|
| [24] |
|
| [25] |
佘小建, 崔峥, 徐啸. 上海临港工业区芦潮港海域水文泥沙分析[J]. 水利水运工程学报, 2009(1):76-80.
|
| [26] |
|
| [27] |
鲁远征, 吴加学, 刘欢. 河口底边界层湍流观测后处理技术方法分析[J]. 海洋学报:中文版, 2012, 34(5):39-49.
|
| [28] |
芦军, 范代读, 涂俊彪, 等. 潮滩上应用ADV进行波浪观测与特征参数计算[J]. 海洋通报, 2016, 35(5):523-531.
|
| [29] |
|
| [30] |
|
| [31] |
In this paper, different partitioning techniques and methods to identify wind sea and swell are investigated, addressing both 1D and 2D schemes. Current partitioning techniques depend largely on arbitrary parameterizations to assess if wave systems are significant or spurious. This makes the implementation of automated procedures difficult, if not impossible, to calibrate. To avoid this limitation, for the 2D spectrum, the use of a digital filter is proposed to help the algorithm keep the important features of the spectrum and disregard the noise. For the 1D spectrum, a mechanism oriented to neglect the most likely spurious partitions was found sufficient for detecting relevant spectral features. Regarding the identification of wind sea and swell, it was found that customarily used methods sometimes largely differ from one another. Evidently, methods using 2D spectra and wind information are the most consistent. In reference to 1D identification methods, attention is given to two widely used methods, namely, the steepness method used operationally at the National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) and the Pierson–Moskowitz (PM) spectrum peak method. It was found that the steepness method systematically overestimates swell, while the PM method is more consistent, although it tends to underestimate swell. Consistent results were obtained looking at the ratio between the energy at the spectral peak of a partition and the energy at the peak of a PM spectrum with the same peak frequency. It is found that the use of partitioning gives more consistent identification results using both 1D and 2D spectra.
|
| [32] |
李志强, 陈子燊, 李志龙, 等. 粤东后江湾近岸波浪要素变化特征分析[C]// 中国海洋工程学会.第十二届中国海岸工程学术讨论会论文集. 北京: 海洋出版社, 2005:5.
|
| [33] |
李志强, 陈子燊, 李志龙. 近岸带波浪传播过程中波性质的统计对比分析[J]. 广东海洋大学学报, 2010, 30(4):43-47.
|
| [34] |
陈子燊, 李志强, 戴志军, 等. 近岸带三组成波耦合作用的观测与分析[J]. 热带海洋学报, 2003, 22(6):46-53.
|
| [35] |
任剑波, 何青, 沈健, 等. 远区台风 “三巴” 对长江口波浪动力场的作用机制[J]. 海洋科学, 2020, 44(5):12-23.
|
/
| 〈 |
|
〉 |
