Journal of Marine Sciences ›› 2023, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (2): 28-44.DOI: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-909X.2023.02.003

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Wave characteristics and their influencing factors on Nanhui tidal flats in the Changjiang Estuary

CUI Minghui1(), TU Junbiao1, MENG Lingpeng1, GUO Xingjie1,2, SU Ni1, FAN Daidu1,*()   

  1. 1. State Key Laboratory of Marine Geology, Tongji University, Shanghai 200092, China
    2. Shanghai Institute of Geological Survey, Shanghai 200072, China
  • Received:2022-12-20 Revised:2023-02-02 Online:2023-06-15 Published:2023-07-27


Wave is an important factor to shape the dynamic geomorphology of the open tidal flat, but researches on tidal-flat wave characteristics are still limited. Taking Nanhui tidal flats in the Changjiang Estuary as an example, the wave characteristic parameters and wave spectrum parameters were obtained by inverting flow-velocity and water-pressure data from the Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters (ADVs) at some fixed platforms, and their changes over tidal cycles and associated influence mechanisms were discussed. The results show that both normal wave direction and prominent wave direction at three stations of Nanhui tidal flats are mainly southeast during the observation period, with long-period swells dominating. The effective wave height of the three stations is positively correlated with the water depth, but the fitting coefficients of each station are different over flood and ebb periods. Wave orbital velocities are obviously modulated by the shallow water effect and the flow directions, and their maximum values usually occur at the early flooding stage, while minimum values can be observed to occur during the current transition periods. The wave energy spectrum during ebb tides is featured by the bimodal pattern because of high influence by tidal levels and coastal topography, and the peak energy is continuously attenuated and gradually dispersed with the concurrent shift of peak frequencies.

Key words: Nanhui tidal flats, wave characteristic parameter, spectrum of waves, wind

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