文章基于近岸海洋数值模式ADCIRC (a parallel advanced circulation model for oceanic, coastal and estuarine waters)和近海波浪数值模式SWAN (simulating waves nearshore), 建立雷州市高分辨率的风暴潮-海浪耦合漫滩数值模型, 并反演了对雷州市影响较为严重的1415号台风“海鸥”的风暴潮过程。经过对比分析得出, 波浪对雷州市沿海海域的风暴潮产生重要影响。然后以8007号台风路径为基础, 构造了7个不同等级共35组台风风暴潮案例, 计算分析出不同等级台风强度下雷州市风暴潮淹没范围及水深。900hPa等级下, 雷州市淹没面积达到463.2km²。文章还构造了60组可能最大风暴潮事件集, 计算得到雷州市可能最大台风风暴潮淹没范围及水深分布。在可能最大台风影响下, 大量海水将漫过海堤, 造成极其严重的淹没灾害, 雷州市总的淹没面积可达602.0km², 其中465.8km²的淹没面积达到了危险性等级 Ⅰ 级, 淹没水深大于3m。雷州市东岸的淹没灾害大于西岸。

A storm surge and wave coupled inundation simulation model for Lei Zhou coastal areas at high resolution has been established based on ADCIRC (a parallel advanced circulation model for oceanic, coastal and estuarine waters)and SWAN (simulating waves nearshore)ocean numerical models. A total of 1415 typhoon cases that seriously impacted Lei Zhou were simulated. The result of contrastive analysis shows that wave has a significant impact on storm surge in Lei Zhou coastal areas. We designed 35 typhoon cases based on 8007 typhoons, and reserve flooded area and submerged depth for seven different grades. The inundated area of Lei Zhou can reach 463.2 km² under 900 hPa grade. We developed 60 cases of possible maximum storm surge and calculated the biggest inundated extent and depth. Under the impact of maximum typhoon, the sea water will spill over seawalls and cause serious flooding disaster. The total submerged area is 602.0 km² in Lei Zhou. The area whose dangerousness is first grade with flooding depth bigger than 3 m is 465.8 km². The eastern coastal areas of Lei Zhou will face larger storm surge disaster risk than the western coastal areas. The results of the study have important implications for guiding prevention and mitigation work of storm surge disaster in Lei Zhou.

Based on the 49-month wave data collected continually at the station of Gyanghai Bay, statistical analysis of wave characteristics was conducted. The results show that the wave height in the bay is usually below 0.5 m. The year-to-year variation of annual-average wave height is small, while the seasonal variation is quite notable. Both the year-to-year and seasonal variations of maximum wave height are prominent. Higher waves occur mainly in summer and autumn, due to tropical cyclones. During Typhoon Hagupit, the wave height increased rapidly, with the maximum wave height reaching 3.55 m. The pattern of typhoon wave was wind-driven wave pattern.

利用海南东方近岸海域2014年至2015年间一整年的海浪观测资料, 分析了海浪的时间变化特征。观测时间段内, 有效波高最大值为4.03m, 平均值0.79m; 平均周期最大值为6.32s, 平均值为3.58s。该海域冬季波高较大, 秋季最小, 常浪向为SSW方向, 强浪向为WSW向。基于该长期观测数据, 文章亦研究了平均周期、有效波高之间的关系, 同时还确立了该海域波高与平均持续时间之间的关系。最后讨论了观测时间段内波浪能流密度的变化特征, 发现一年中能流密度大于2kW·m^-1的频率为26%, 且从全年的计算结果来看, 观测位置处12月的波浪能较适宜开发, 但总体波浪能资源不够丰富。文章对于认识海南东方近岸海域波浪特征以及工程设计都具有重要的意义。

Temporal variation characteristics of ocean waves in the coastal area of Dongfang, Hainan are analyzed based on observations of ocean waves for a whole year from Aug 1, 2014 to Jul 31, 2015. During the observation period, the maximum height of the significant wave height was 4.03m, the average was 0.79m; the maximum value of the mean period was 6.32s, and the average was 3.58 seconds. In this sea area, the wave height was higher in winter, with minimum in autumn. The normal wave direction was SSW, and the strong wave direction was WSW. Based on the one-year observation data, the relation between the mean period and significant wave height was studied, and the relation between the significant wave height and its mean duration was also established. Finally, the variation characteristics of wave energy density in the observation period were discussed. We found that the frequency of wave energy density above 2kW·m^-1 in one year was 26%, and the wave energy at the observation location increased faster in December, but the total wave energy resources were not rich enough. The results obtained in this study are of great significance for understanding the wave characteristics and engineering design of the coastal area of Dongfang, Hainan.

文章利用珠江口长达1年的实测海浪资料, 对珠江口海浪基本要素、大浪过程以及与热带气旋活动的关系进行统计分析, 选取强台风“韦森特”过程进行研究。结果表明: 珠江口波浪以0~2级波高为主, 出现频率达76%, 3级波高次之, 出现频率为22%; 平均波高的月变化幅度较大, 大浪多出现在夏、冬季, 与热带气旋活动和冷空气过程密切相关; 常浪向为SE向, 出现频率为29%, 强浪向为SSE向, 一般由热带气旋引起; 涌浪在秋、冬季出现频率较低; 在春、夏两季出现频率稍高。强台风“韦森特”期间, 最大浪高达3.93m, 台风浪经历了涌浪—混合浪—风浪—混合浪的过程, 波型变化与一般台风浪波型的演变规律较为一致。

Based on the one year wave data collected continually at the station of the Pearl River Estuary, statistical analysis of wave characteristics was conducted. The results show that the frequency of the wave height that was below 0.5 m was 76%. The month-to-month variation was quite notable. The bigger waves occurred mainly in summer and winter, which were closely related to tropical cyclones and cold air. The direction of higher frequency waves was SE, and the frequency reached 29%. The direction of strong wave was SSE, which was generally caused by tropical cyclones. During Typhoon Vicente, the wave height increased rapidly, with the maximum wave height reaching 3.93 m. The pattern of typhoon wave was in accordance with the general evolution of typhoon wave type.