Laboratory study of monochromatic wave nonlinear characteristics around reefs with largebottom roughness

YANG Xiaoxiao; YAO Yu; HE Tiancheng; JIA Meijun

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-909X.2020.02.002

PDF(2364 KB)

Journal of Marine Sciences ›› 2020, Vol. 38 ›› Issue (2) : 9-15. DOI: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-909X.2020.02.002

Laboratory study of monochromatic wave nonlinear characteristics around reefs with largebottom roughness

YANG Xiaoxiao¹, YAO Yu^*1,2, HE Tiancheng¹, JIA Meijun¹

Author information +

History +

Abstract

To investigate monochromatic wave nonlinear characteristics around coral reefs with large surface roughness, laboratory experiments were carried out in a wave flume. A cylinder array was used to model the reef roughness and a series of monochromatic wave conditions were tested. Results show that magnitudes of the wave skewness, the wave asymmetry and the Ursell Number reach their peaks at the endpoint, in the interior and at the stating location of the reef surf zone, respectively. All the three parameters increase with the increasing wave height. Meanwhile, the skewness decreases with the increase of wave period while both the asymmetry and the Ursell Number increase with the increase of wave period. Moreover, the skewness increases with the increase of reef-flat water level while both the asymmetry and the Ursell Number decrease with the increase of reef-flat water level. The deep-water Ursell Number is able to describe the variations of the three examined parameters on the reef flat, and the empirical formulas are finally proposed in this study to predict these parameters.

Key words

reef roughness / monochromatic waves / skewness / asymmetry / Ursell Number

Cite this article

EndNote

Ris (Procite)

Bibtex

Download Citations

YANG Xiaoxiao, YAO Yu, HE Tiancheng, JIA Meijun. Laboratory study of monochromatic wave nonlinear characteristics around reefs with largebottom roughness[J]. Journal of Marine Sciences. 2020, 38(2): 9-15 https://doi.org/10.3969/j.issn.1001-909X.2020.02.002

References

[1] 姚宇. 珊瑚礁海岸水动力学问题研究综述[J]. 水科学进展, 2019, 30(1): 139-152.
YAO Yu. A review of the coral reef hydrodynamics[J]. Advance in Water Science, 2019, 30(1): 139-152.
[2] 陈洪洲, 毕春伟, 高俊亮. 波浪在珊瑚岸礁礁坪上传播变形的数值研究[J]. 水科学进展, 2018, 29(2): 252-259.
CHEN Hongzhou, BI Chunwei, GAO Junliang. Numerical study of wave transformation over fringing reef flat[J]. Advances in Water Science, 2018, 29(2): 252-259.
[3] MONISMITH S G, HERDMAN L M M, AHMERKAMP S, et al. Wave transformation and wave-driven flow across a steep coral reef[J]. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 2013, 43(7): 1356-1379.
[4] LOWE R J, FALTER J L, BANDET M D, et al. Spectral wave dissipation over a barrier reef[J]. Journal of Geophysical Research, 2005, 110: C04001.
[5] CHELLA M A, BIHS H, MYRHAUG D. Characteristics and profile asymmetry properties of waves breaking over an impermeable submerged reef[J]. Coastal Engineering, 2015, 100: 26-36.
[6] CHERITON O M, STORLAZZI C D, ROSENBERGER K J. Observations of wave transformation over a fringing coral reef and the importance of low-frequency waves and offshore water levels to runup, overwash, and coastal flooding[J]. Journal of Geophysical Research Oceans, 2016, 121:3121-3140. DOI:10.1002/2015JC011231.
[7] LOWE R J, BUCKLEY M L, ALTOMARE C, et al. Numerical simulations of surf zone wave dynamics using smoothed particle hydrodynamics[J]. Ocean Modelling, 2019, 144: 101481.
[8] YAO Y, HE F, TANG Z, et al. A study of tsunami-like solitary wave transformation and run-up over fringing reefs[J]. Ocean Engineering, 2018, 149: 142-155.
[9] BECKER J M, MERRIFIELD M A, FORD M. Water level effects on breaking wave setup for Pacific Island fringing reefs[J]. Journal of Geophysical Research Oceans, 2014, 119:914-935.DOI:10.1002/2013JC009373.
[10] 姚宇, 袁万成, 杜睿超, 等. 岸礁礁冠对波浪传播变形及增水影响的实验研究[J]. 热带海洋学报, 2015, 34(6): 19-25.
YAO Yu, YUAN Wancheng,DU Ruichao,et al. Experimental study of reef crest's effects on wave transformation and wave-induced setup over fringing reefs[J]. Journal of Tropical Oceanography, 2015, 34(6):19-25.
[11] 姚宇, 唐政江, 杜睿超, 等. 珊瑚礁破碎带附近波浪演化和波生流实验研究[J]. 海洋科学, 2017, 41(2): 12-19.
YAO Yu, TANG Zhengjiang, DU Ruichao, et al. Experimental study of wave transformation and wave-driven current around the surf zone over coral reefs[J]. Marine Sciences, 2017, 41(2): 12-19.
[12] WILLMOTT C J. On the validation of models[J]. Physical Geography, 1981, 2(2):184-194.